tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56222727153106635242024-03-13T19:07:59.762-04:00Hack RacerAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-48896627789640584652012-07-11T05:00:00.000-04:002012-07-11T05:00:10.665-04:00The Tour de Waterloo 2012 - The story of my 1st ever Road Race (Part 1)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Tour de Waterloo took place on Sunday June 24, 2012 starting from Sybase / iAnywhere Building Parking Lot in Waterloo Ontario. It was a Gran Fondo Mass start road race with 3 different distances. 40km / 70km / 130 km.<br />
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This was typically the same weekend as the 24 hours of summer solstice at Albion Hills near Bolton Ontario XC mountain bike relay race. For many years I raced this event but not this year.<br />
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The original intent was to just have a relaxing weekend and perhaps head out of town for a short road trip. Just 20 days earlier my girlfriend and I returned back from a 14 day vacation touring through Italy. As many who have been or just enjoy food in general, what you do in Italy is indulge in the great food and wine offered by such a beautiful country. I unfortunately was not there with my bike to ride the amazing roads through Toscana. The only excercise I saw was 10+ hours a day on my feet walking and touring around the small towns of Toscana and Cinque Terre.<br />
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I learned that I was selected to ride the 130 km road race while I was on vacation via email.<br />
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The story begins 3 days before I was leaving for my 2 week vacation. At work I saw a posting on my company's intraweb page looking for seasoned cyclist to form a team for the tour de Waterloo 130 km Gran Fondo road race. Clicking the link offered a boring HTML form to fill out. Similar to the ones you fill out to register for a website to buy something.<br />
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The questions I remember asked, can you physically cycle 130 kms? Are you able to maintain an average of 27 km/h throughout the distance. Are you available Sunday June 24th? Describe your previous race experience. What size Jersey do you wear?<br />
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I clicked on, Yes, Yes, Yes, and listed my past race experience competing in the Plastigas Ontario XC MTB races for 3 years, Racing at the weekly Tuesday night Albion Hills mountain bike race, current UCI race license holder for 2012, and have been cycling seriously since 2006. Oh and Size Large please.<br />
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I vaguely remember pondering, should I do this or not but ended up clicking on submit and thought... hrm... I wonder what will come of this. <br />
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About 5 days later I received an email. Congratulations, you have been selected to ride on the team. Please attend the meeting to receive further information... <br />
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CRAP! was my first thought. My 2nd thought was, quick... let's do a gut check. Figuratively and literally as I had just polished off 1/2 a bottle of Brunello and a 4 course meal.<br />
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Big gut? Yes. How many kilometers have I ridden since the snow melted? about 320 kms... What have I done for most of the winter...? Not much at all. :(<br />
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What am I going to be doing for the next 1.5 weeks? Eating gelato and
drinking lots of wine with 4 course meals? Not good at all.<br />
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Not all was lost. There was still 20 days between returning back from home and race day. I figured if I could ride 160+ km per week up to the race weekend I should be OK.<br />
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Talk about being the definition of "Hack Racer". Not enough riding, thinking you can race with the big boys and not watching your diet.<br />
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But this wasn't going to stop me. Game on.<br />
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For all the followers who don't know me, I work as a Program Manager for Research in Motion. Blackberry was the title sponsor for the 130km loop for the tour de Waterloo. I felt honored to be selected to race for blackberry and to represent all my coworkers globally at a race we sponsored locally for the community. <br />
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There was also something else I had kept on thinking, that this was going to be closest it was going to get to being a professional cyclist. Never had I once imagined someone other than MasterCard would pay for my race entrance fee, pay for a jersey, do all the planning and logistics for me to go riding my bicycle.<br />
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Needless to say I continued to eat lots of excercise little on my vacation in Italy. I'm sure there will be posts about the trip at a later date. Many of my friends and relatives are bugging me to summarize the trip so they could follow in our foot steps.<br />
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The lead up to the race day and race summary to be posted the next day. To be continued... <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com18Waterloo, ON, Canada43.4642578 -80.520409643.372059799999995 -80.678338099999991 43.5564558 -80.3624811tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-70046529770010679292012-07-09T05:00:00.001-04:002012-07-11T11:41:53.496-04:00Bike Fitting rev 2.0 - http://www.fridayfitness.ca/<br />
These days having a high performance carbon fibre bicycle is
not enough. You have to ensure you are able to extra every bit of
performance. Regardless if you are a recreational rider or a club racer, knowing that you left it all out on the road brings us all
satisfaction. <br />
<br />
A while back I wrote about my experience with being professionally fitted on my bicycles using the retul technology. Back in 2008 when I first looked into bike fitting there were not many options. You had the bicycle shops who would eye ball you based upon years of experience selling bikes and making taking 1 or 2 courses or reading a book. In Ontario, Canada at the time there was a physiotherapist/trainer out of University of Guelph who was Serrotta certified. In the end I went with an MacLean who runs <a href="http://www.imfit.ca/">http://www.imfit.ca/</a> and is certified on the RETUL system.<br />
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http://www.hackracer.com/2012/01/retul-fit-in-depth-review.html<br />
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4 years is a long time. As a cyclist I have gained a lot more experience from the kilometers ridden and to understanding how my body responds to different conditions.<br />
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When Winston Tam proprietor of Friday Fitness (<a href="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/">http://www.fridayfitness.ca/</a>) told me he would be back in town visiting Toronto, Ontario, Canada from Taipei, Taiwan I quickly asked him, "Hey, we going to rip some single track up?" the response was of course yes. But more importantly he had all his Retul and bike fitting gear with him. <br />
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http://www.hackracer.com/2012/03/wwwfridayfitnessca-top-bicycle-fitter.html<br />
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So before we set out to rip up single track I arranged with him to do a tune up fit session from the one I did 4 years ago. <br />
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4 years ago there wasn't much choice if I wanted professional bleeding edge sport science in terms of bicycle fitting. But as time moves on, more choices are available. What is important when selecting a fitter is not what tools he/she has to measure your body. But rather what education he/she has and what experience they have as a rider or racer to help you achieve your best.<br />
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4 years ago I told Winston Tam about my fit session. He was intrigued. I told him he should start his own shop doing exactly this. He has been racing bikes for close to a decade. This is important, because you want someone who understands the conditions you are dealing with. Fortunately after 4 years he finally decided to pursue it.<br />
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In Winston Tam fashion he made 110% sure he could offer the best and most comprehensive service possible. He spent a lot of time studying and training to become certified in the following leading edge bio-mechanics and performance systems. <br />
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- RETÜL 3D Certified Bike Fitting<br />
- SICI (Serrota) Advanced Certified Bike Fitting<br />
- BIKEFIT Certified Bike Fitting<br />
- F.I.S.T. Certified Bike Fitting<br />
<br />
<br />
At first Winston and I thought it would take around an hour to be done with my fit. Seeing how I had a previous fit session done with someone else several years ago. The idea was to do the fit session and go hammer our mountain bikes at Durham Forest for the rest of the afternoon. That quickly changed once Winston saw how my body was performing on my bike. I took the same bike as the one I used for the fit session 4 years ago. My Trusty 2006 Cervelo Soloist Team, true to the original fit dimensions.<br />
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During the fit session with www.imfit.ca 4 years ago the saddle height was drastically lowered by Ian. He believed that my saddle at that time was too high and was contributing to a poor hysteresis knee trace (making doughnuts) as it goes up and down. I recalled 4 years ago that he also did not like the fact that my toes were constantly pointing down at the ground rather than level with the ground during the pedal stroke under power. He spent most of the time correcting the knee trace and the knee pointing and said that would be the key to fixing my lower back pain.<br />
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What I noticed for the next couple of years I was slowly jacking the seat post back up myself as I felt crammed while riding. Yes my toes were pointing parallel to the ground, but I felt my hip was always closed off and I wasn't able to generate maximum power, and that the range of the pedal stroke that I could put a lot of power down was little. Once Winston saw my fit he confirmed my feelings that the fit was no longer working.<br />
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So we started the fit session from scratch. Winston assessed my flexibility after warming up, looked at hip angles, knee traces, power output, smoothness of the cadence, just like what was done during my 1st fit session 4 years ago. <br />
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We played with moving the saddle up, up some more and then really high up, moved the saddle forward, verified that the pivot angles for my legs were within ideal range and then played with the shoes.<br />
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After all the adjustments I asked, "what about all the concerns the previous fitter had, such as toe pointing?"<br />
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Winston replied, <i>"You do not have excessive toe pointing and there has been no research stating any negative effect on toe pointing. According to F.I.S.T. methodology unless there is excessive toe pointing the rider should be left alone." </i><br />
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<b>What Winston brings to the table is not just relying on technology but rather he successfully blends the experience he has as a racer, and all the knowledge from the being RETÜL 3D Certified, SICI Advanced Certified, BIKEFIT Certified and F.I.S.T. Certified to get you into the ideal position. </b><br />
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This is what is important. <br />
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<br />
In the end the entire bicycle changed:<br />
- cleats moved back<br />
- raised saddle 5cm up<br />
- moved saddle forward<br />
- installed ITS varus wedge<br />
- complete assessment and changes at the front end<br />
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It's too bad I don't have enough steerer tube length left. Else I would put more spacers on instead of having the stem angle up, however being comfortable and relaxed is the goal to be able to generate power and ride long distances. <br />
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BEFORE:<br />
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AFTER:<br />
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Looking at the two pictures you can see the hip is more open, with a more relaxed shoulder.<br />
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The higher saddle position also didn't affect my knee trace either.<br />
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With close to 1000 kms on the new fit, I can confirm the fit has worked
wonders to improving average speed with less soreness in my shoulder and
lower back. All of which means faster riding and more blue sign victories on the road bike. <br />
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[updated July 11, 2012 for formatting/grammar/spelling].<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com3Taipei City, Taiwan25.091075 121.559834524.976033 121.401906 25.206117 121.71776299999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-69941200945913974412012-06-25T06:30:00.000-04:002012-06-25T06:30:04.531-04:00weighed: Schwalbe Furious Fred HS 395 MTB tire 26x2.0Schwalbe Furious Fred HS 395 MTB tire 26x2.0<br />
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manufacturer claimed weight for 26x2.0: 315g<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-47562530001249999942012-06-11T06:30:00.000-04:002012-06-11T06:30:02.175-04:00Weighed: Veloflex Corsa 22 (700x22c road tire)If you combine these tires with the Michelin AirComp A1 Latex tubes, I guarantee to you they will produce the best ride on your road bike. The only way to beat this combination is to run Tubular tires and rims.<br />
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Manufacturer claimed weight: 207g<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0ZmeYH-JjoM/T5tRXiBDB8I/AAAAAAAABYg/4a-3t2TgnsM/s1600/IMG_7440+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0ZmeYH-JjoM/T5tRXiBDB8I/AAAAAAAABYg/4a-3t2TgnsM/s320/IMG_7440+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Don't believe me? Still thinking of buying, check out the thread I started at weight weenie forums several years back (2010 to be exact). The thread is now 10 pages long and still growing.<br />
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<a href="http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=73928&sid=107b944aba51c72228c1fd1bc33fa192">I love Veloflex Corsa 22 Folding tires + Latex tubes</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-70500597911148324322012-06-04T06:30:00.000-04:002012-06-04T06:30:01.733-04:00weighed: Michelin A1 AirComp Latex Tube - 700c 40mm presta valveMichelin A1 AirComp Latex Tube - 700x22/23, 40mm presta valve.<br />
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Manufacturer claimed weight: 80g<br />
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BEST RIDING TUBES! Hack Racer guaranteed to impress you. <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-47101286599418840122012-05-28T06:30:00.000-04:002012-05-28T06:30:02.463-04:00weighed: Recon Full Titanium 11-32, 9 speed cassetteRecon Full Titanium 11-32, 9 speed cassette<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AmOuEh6Qld8/T5tO8BNLbcI/AAAAAAAABYI/jNHDo09EdlE/s1600/IMG_1385+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AmOuEh6Qld8/T5tO8BNLbcI/AAAAAAAABYI/jNHDo09EdlE/s320/IMG_1385+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-31014875185340044502012-05-21T06:30:00.000-04:002012-05-21T06:30:01.057-04:00weighed: Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio SaddleSelle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Saddle.Manufacturer claimed weight 125g<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-44522647846266412932012-05-14T06:30:00.000-04:002012-05-14T06:30:00.414-04:00weighed: Shimano Yumeya YM-SL81 shifter clampsShimano Yumeya YM-SL81 Shifter clamps for XTR SL-M970<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-21828125611152866362012-05-07T06:30:00.000-04:002012-05-07T06:30:02.536-04:00weighed: Shimano Yumeya YM-SL82 barrel adjustersShimano Yumeya YM-SL82 barrel adjusters for XTR SL-M970<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-10424620211680133032012-05-03T06:30:00.000-04:002012-05-03T06:30:00.645-04:00Eggbeater maintanace.With any high end part you have to do annual service. Things wear out, grease gets contaminated with dirt, etc etc.<br />
<br />
If you have expensive bike parts, it is almost guaranteed it will require more attention than cheap bike parts. To get lighter weight parts, the manufacturers are using more exotic materials and also reducing the safety factor in the calculations during design to "just enough". They are not putting in a big fudge factor that an average user will need due to neglect for their products.<br />
<br />
Expensive stuff cannot be neglected. That is the bottom line. Whenever I hear of someone saying, "I paid so much money for this expensive thing and it failed so quickly. It doesn't even last as long as my cheap part." The person here doesn't understand that the cheap part is usually made from solid steel instead of hollowed out titanium. Titanium is already weaker and doesn't have the same hardness as steel. So once this expensive hollowed out titanium pieces wears it gets thinner (could be that you let the bearing fail or the seal wear and dirt gets in making grease become sandpaper) the part will break suddenly.<br />
<br />
If you are putting on lots of kilometres of riding with super expensive super lightweight eggbeater pedals (Eggbeater 4ti pictured) you need to change out the bearing, bushing, and seals yearly.<br />
<br />
Instructions are here:<br />
<a href="http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/product_documentation/instructions_eggbeater.pdf">http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/product_documentation/instructions_eggbeater.pdf</a><br />
<br />
The important point here is to wash everything clean. Take your pedal (once you've taken it all apart) and wash it in hot soapy water. Dry off the water with a towel and allow the pedal parts to dry before re-assembly.<br />
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I personally use the pedros grease, but any grease will do fine.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-4173167387690646502012-04-30T06:00:00.000-04:002012-04-30T06:00:01.544-04:00weighed: Shimano Yumeya YM-FC81 crank bolt for XTR FC-M970<a class="GPCRQBSPB" href="" kind="edit">Shimano Yumeya non-drive side crank bolt YM-FC81 for XTR FC-M970</a><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-91500311999887117882012-04-28T06:30:00.000-04:002012-04-28T06:30:02.627-04:002011 Rocky Mountain Element Team RSL build progressSo parts have arrived. But been super busy with work and helping friends out. Redid the brakes on a friend's subaru, some plumbing for my parents, built up the Lynskey road bike for another friend.<br />
<br />
On top of all that I still have to do the brakes on my own Subaru, and also replace the steering U-joint too.<br />
<br />
This is the progress so far for my 2011 Rocky Mountain Element Team RSL<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Oz-iv5SbP60/T5taMra5BaI/AAAAAAAABZc/MBLNtwPrXgE/s1600/IMG_6709+%28Large%29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Oz-iv5SbP60/T5taMra5BaI/AAAAAAAABZc/MBLNtwPrXgE/s320/IMG_6709+%28Large%29.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-84779300382901311142012-04-26T06:30:00.000-04:002012-04-27T21:18:01.751-04:00Lynskey R330 New BuildThis past Sunday was the Substance Project Eco-Race 1 Durham Forest race here in Ontario, Canada. The plan was go and race. But I felt under the weather.<br />
<br />
However a lot was accomplished. I helped my good friend Tom put together his Lynskey R330 on Saturday. I've known Tom for several years now. I first met him at Tuesday Night Albion Hills MTB races.<br />
<br />
He showed up at around 10 am with a frame in bubble wrap straight from <a href="http://www.lynskeyperformance.com/">Lynskey</a> and little boxes of Campagnolo parts.<br />
<br />
The Lynskey R330 was a limited production run in 2012. Tom was lucky enough to get one. It is one of Lynskey's nicest road frames ever made. <br />
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This was the end result. One happy Tom.<br />
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Weight came out to 15.45 lbs with an old heavy saddle as a place holder until a Fizik Kurve arrives. Bottle cages are in the mail.<br />
<br />
Tom built the wheels himself. They are built to perfection.<br />
<br />
So you are probably asking, what is the build list...<br />
<br />
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 526px;"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 4832; mso-width-source: userset; width: 113pt;" width="151"></col>
<col style="mso-width-alt: 12000; mso-width-source: userset; width: 281pt;" width="375"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="height: 15.75pt; width: 113pt;" width="151">Frame</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; width: 281pt;" width="375">Lynskey R330 M</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Fork</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Enve 2.0</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Headset</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Tune Bobo</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Expander</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Tune Gum Gum</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Bars</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">3T Ergonova Team
42cm, ø31.8 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Stem</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Extralite Road,
100mm, ø31.8 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Saddle</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Fizik Kurve saddle</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Pedals</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Speedplay Zero
Chromoly w/ Upgraded Ward Ti Spindles</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Crankset</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11
- Compact 50/34</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Levers</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11
Ergopower</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Front
Derailleur</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Rear
Derailleur</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Cassette</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11
- 11-25t</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Chain</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Brakeset</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Rear Hub</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Chris King R45
Campagnolo - 28h</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Front Hub</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Chris King R45 - 24h</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Front Rim</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Stans Alpha 340 - 24h</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Rear Rim</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Stans Alpha 340 - 28h</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Spokes</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Sapim CX Ray Silver x 52</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Nipples</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">DT Swiss Alloy - 52</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Rimtape</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Stans Yellow Tape</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Tubes</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Michelin Air</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Front Tire</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Veloflex Corsa23 -
700x23c</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Rear Tire</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Veloflex Corsa23 -
700x23c</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Skewers</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Aerozine Ti Skewers</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Seatpost
Clamp</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Omni Racer Ti Clamp
34.9</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Seatpost</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Fizik Cyrano Carbon Seatpost 27.2 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Bar tape</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Deda Cork</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Cables/Housing</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Campagnolo Record 11</td>
</tr>
<tr height="21" style="height: 15.75pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="21" style="border-top: none; height: 15.75pt;">Cages</td>
<td class="xl66" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">King Ti</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
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This is the first time for me putting a Campagnolo bike together. I've put together many bikes for myself and for friends in the past, but Tom is the only one that is riding Campagnolo. Partly because most of us are already established road riders with several sets of wheels. The freehub body for the rear hub for Campagnolo are different than the Shimano/Sram counterparts. Meaning if you already have wheelsets based off of Shimano or Sram you can't go to Campagnolo easily as you can't install a Campagnolo cassette on them.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qtSABMs2Jzg/T5io3VG_-RI/AAAAAAAABWw/bL44u6hlSrE/s1600/0203_shimano_campy_10spd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qtSABMs2Jzg/T5io3VG_-RI/AAAAAAAABWw/bL44u6hlSrE/s320/0203_shimano_campy_10spd.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Some rear hub manufacturers allow you to change the rear freehub body and then you would have to potentially redish the wheel.One example is the DTswiss 240s rear hub.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
There are 3rd party component manufacturers that offer Campagnolo spaced cassettes that fit onto Shimano Freehubs, but those in the past shift like crap. One point to make is that with Campagnolo going to 11 speeds, this forces the cogs to sit further inboard. The 11th cog needs to sit further inboard than Shimano's 10th cog, so if you are running hubs with flanges that are too far outboard (which many hub designs do to maximize lateral stiffness of the wheel) you are going to be out of luck.<br />
<br />
Wheels manufacturing is possibily the only cassette I would try out if I was going to run Campagnolo and had Shimano/Sram based wheels.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://wheelsmfg.com/products/rear-drivetrain/cassette-conversions.html">Wheels Manufacturing Accelerator 11-speed Conversion cassette</a><br />
<br />
So the build went relatively well. I have a vast tool collection and mechanical experience, but some bits of the Campagnolo kit had me reading the instructions and running around trying to find tools.<br />
<br />
The bottom bracket installation recommended by Campagnolo is to douse the threads with Loctite 222MS and screw in the cups hand tight. I did this, but also added in Loctite 7471 to prime the threads before adding in the Loctite 222MS to speed up the cure. Cups were torqued to hand tight with a rag to increase grip strength.<br />
<br />
Certain bolts are torx. A good thing, as torx is less prone to tool slipping out of the bolt head. During the build I ran into using both T25, some T20. My tool collection lacked a good quality T20 bit. <br />
<br />
The lock ring for the rear cassette has a different spline than Shimano (I didn't know that). The chain pin used to connect the chain together requires it to be peened. There is a special chain tool which I didn't have or have time to make one up.<br />
<br />
In the end all fasteners were torqued using a calibrated torque wrench. The only fastener torqued without a calibrated torque wrench was the bolt for the Record crankset that holds the Hirth joint together for the spindle. This was done using <a href="http://www.parktool.com/product/torque-wrench-tw-2">Park Tool TW-2</a> which I never verified if the sticker for the scale reading corresponded correctly with the deflection beam.<br />
<br />
So even though the bike was built up, shifting adjusted and bar tape wrapped. It wasn't fully done, Tom needed to visit the local bike store to get his chain peened and the lock ring torqued up. Luckily a local bike shop helped him out free of charge. <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-49747008516734546812012-04-18T06:30:00.000-04:002012-04-18T06:30:00.775-04:00TECH: Part 4 of 4 - How to bleed Fox FIT cartridge and reassemble a Fox F32 ForkOnce you have dried off all the parts to your fork (overnight or towel dry) we will be installing new seals, changing the oil in the FIT cartridge and reassembling the fork. <br />
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For 2012 Fox released these new seals. They make the fork feel like it's night and day compared to the old seals. <br />
<br />
If you are purchasing this seal kit from your local bike store. Make sure they don't try to sell you the old stock at full price. You want the 2012 version. Make sure the part numbers are correct before buying.<br />
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<table cellpadding="3" class="TableStyle_Basic"><tbody>
<tr height="10" style="height: 10pt;"><td height="10" style="font-weight: normal; height: 10pt;">803-00-613</td>
<td style="border-left: none; font-weight: normal;">Kit: Dust Wiper, Forx, 32 mm, Low Friction</td>
</tr>
<tr height="10" style="height: 10pt;">
<td height="10" style="font-weight: normal; height: 10pt;">803-00-614</td>
<td style="border-left: none; font-weight: normal;">Kit: Dust Wiper, Forx, 34 mm, Low Friction</td>
</tr>
<tr height="10" style="height: 10pt;">
<td height="10" style="font-weight: normal; height: 10pt;">803-00-615</td>
<td style="border-left: none; font-weight: normal;">Kit: Dust Wiper, Forx, 36 mm, Low Friction</td>
</tr>
<tr height="10" style="height: 10pt;">
<td height="10" style="font-weight: normal; height: 10pt;">803-00-616</td>
<td style="border-left: none; font-weight: normal;">Kit: Dust Wiper, Forx, 40 mm, Low Friction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
When Fox calls for Fox Red Fluid or Fox Green Fluid. They are pretty much the same thing. The Fox Red is Silkolene Pro-RSF 10wt Suspension Fluid. The Green is Torco RSF Medium. For the FIT cartridge users Fox says you need to use both Red and Green. Red goes into the FIT cartridge itself. Green into the damping leg side oil bath to lubricate the fork going up and down. In my view, just use Red for both. So if you bought Silkolene Pro-RSF Suspension Fluid 10wt just use that for everywhere on FIT forks. Silkolene Pro-RSF 10 wt Suspension Fluid and Torco RSF Medium are both synthetic based oils. By buying one less bottle of oil at approximately 20 dollars a bottle you are getting similar results. <br />
<br />
For the other users out there who have open bath Fox forks (meaning non-FIT versions). I would recommend finding Torco RSF Medium from a motorcycle shop, because the cSt @ 40C between Silkolene Pro-RSF 10 wt and Torco RSF Medium are not equal.<br />
<br />
For myself I chose to use Redline Suspension oil. I purchased a bottle of their heavy and a bottle of their medium. I mixed them to get the same cSt @ 40C as Silkolene Pro-RSF 10wt.<br />
<br />
<b>42% Redline Medium + 58% Redline Heavy =<u> Fox 10wt = silkolene pro rsf 10wt</u></b><br />
<br />
reference: <a href="http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid">http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid</a><br />
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I purchased this from a golf shop so that I can hold my FIT cartridge in my vice without it being damaged. <br />
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First order of business is to change the oil in the FIT damper cartridge. The Fox service shows them breaking down the FIT cartridge completely. You do not need to do this for a simple oil change unless you had problems with your fork not damping. There is no reason to open it. If you open it up and follow their guide<a href="http://www.blogger.com/%20http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/32FITFullServiceProc.htm"> http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/32FITFullServiceProc.htm </a>the complexity quickly jumps to a 10/10 on a scale of difficulty.<br />
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I'm assuming you have been following the previous 3 posts and are now at the point of all the parts of the fork broken down into their sub-assemblies. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/04/tech-part-1-how-to-do-annual-service-on.html">TECH: Part 1 - How to do an annual service on Fox Forks</a><br />
<a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/04/tech-part-2-annual-service-on-fox-forks.html">TECH: Part 2 - Annual service on Fox Forks (reality check)</a><br />
<a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/04/tech-part-3-of-4-how-to-replace-seals.html">TECH: Part 3 of 4 - How to replace seals, oils, and re-assemble</a><br />
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We will begin with working on the FIT damper first and change the oil. Unscrew the lockout assembly from the top of the FIT cartridge. You can do this with your fingers.<br />
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Once that is off, set it aside and dump out all the old oil. You should cycle the shaft in and out of the FIT cartridge to get all the oil out. Then make sure the shaft is all the way in and squeeze the rubber bladder to get the remaining amounts out.<br />
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Hopefully you followed the 1st post and went to Walmart to buy one of these syringes. It was located in the automotive section of the walmart close to my home.The vacuum nipple you will need to cut the tip off with a sharp knife. Choose one that will acts as a plug between the FIT cartridge and the syringe tip.<br />
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You are going to need to place the FIT cartridge into a vice so that you can use two hands to work with (This is where the golf shaft rubber grip for the vice is used). Take the plunger out of the Syringe, install the nipple that you cut the tip off of and plug it into the FIT cartridge. Extend the shaft of the FIT cartridge all the way out and pour in the Fox Red 10wt or Silkolene Pro-RSF 10wt or Redline Oil Mix.<br />
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The next steps are to bleed all the air out of the FIT cartridge. Unfortunately my hands were covered in oil and I did not have an assistant to take photos for me. So we will be following the Fox service guide here:<br />
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reference: <a href="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/32FITFullServiceProc.htm">http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/32FITFullServiceProc.htm</a><br />
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The important point to make is do not let the syringe ever go empty. You will then be introducing air back into the FIT cartridge.<br />
<h4>
Bleeding the Complete Cartridge Assembly</h4>
Your next step is to purge any trapped air within the entire assembly. First, remove the lockout lever assembly,
and press the syringe body into its threaded opening in the topcap assembly.<br />
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<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/FITfinalbleed1.gif" />
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<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/FITfinalbleed2.gif" /><br />
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Fill the syringe reservoir with 10-15 cc of 10 wt. oil.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/FITfinalbleed3.gif" /><br />
<br />
Gently squeeze the bladder, progressively rolling the squeeze
from your pinkie to your index finger. Sustain your squeezing, and
watch for air bubbles rising up from the cartridge into the syringe
reservoir. Allow enough time for the air bubbles to rise to the oil
surface and escape, before you release finger pressure.<br />
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<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/FITfinalbleed4.gif" /><br />
<br />
Release your grip on the bladder, to allow it to return to its smooth-sided cylindrical shape.<br />
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<td><img height="400" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl117.jpg" width="300" />
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<td><img height="400" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl118.jpg" width="300" />
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Repeat this process; gently squeeze the bladder,
progressively rolling the squeeze from your pinkie to your index finger.
Keep squeezing, allowing enough time for any trapped air to bubble up
through the oil reservoir in the syringe. Keep watching for air bubbles;
repeat this operation as often as necessary, until no more air bubbles
can be seen.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl120.jpg" /><br />
<br />
While maintaining your squeezing of the bladder, with your
other hand slowly push the end of the shaft up all the way, to further
purge any air still trapped internally in the piston and coupler
assemblies. Slowly return the shaft end downwards to full extension and
release your grip on the bladder,
which will draw oil back in from the syringe reservoir.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl116.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Take a break and let everything sit for perhaps 30 minutes,
to allow a chance for more air to bubble out. If air bubbles are still
present, repeat the bleeding process once again. Repeat this process
until you see no air bubbles appearing when you squeeze the bladder.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl121.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The total time it takes to complete the bleeding process can vary, depending on:
<br />
<ul>
<li value="1">the time and care taken during assembling of the parts</li>
<li value="2">the time and care taken when adding the oil to all the parts assemblies</li>
</ul>
<h4>
Wrapping It Up</h4>
<u><b>Draw the cartridge shaft all the way back down</b></u>, which will
draw most of the oil in the syringe body into the cartridge. <u><b>The bladder
must be back to its natural, cylindrical shape; no dents or dimples</b></u>.
Lift the syringe out while capping the point with your finger, and
return the excess oil back into its container.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl122.jpg" /><br />
<br />
What you should now have is a cartridge completely filled
with 10 wt oil, evidenced by the oil slightly overflowing into the
topcap.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl124.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Insert the lockout assembly, and screw it into place
finger-tight for now. Again, be sure to engage the threads of the
lockout assembly, to ensure that the o-ring fully seats and seals the
topcap. The lockout assembly o-ring should not be visible.<br />
<br />
<div class="Note">
<span class="autonumber" style="color: black;"><b><span class="mcFormatColor">Note:</span></b> </span>Some
oil will be displaced into the topcap well when you do this, which is
normal and should not re-introduce any air into the cartridge.<br />
</div>
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl125.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Remove the cartridge from the vise clamps and dump the overflow oil in the topcap into a drain pan.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/mvl128.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<b>When the lockout is completely closed, a successfully rebuilt
FIT cartridge will not compress, or have any air gaps when you compress
it. The final step is to test this before installing the rebuilt
cartridge back into the fork assembly.</b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Resources/Images/FITcartendtesty.gif" />
<br />
<br />
-------------------- (end of Fox service guide)<br />
<br />
One point I like to make is that even though I let the FIT cartridge sit for an hour and came back to it, I found that the rubber bladder/reservoir never returned to full shape with the shaft fully extended. This is a problem because when I put the lockout assembly back into the FIT Cartridge and screwed it in finger tight (this effectively closes off the FIT cartridge and gives you "lock out") the shaft could still be pushed into the FIT cartridge. When the FIT cartridge is locked out, the shaft when fully extended should not compress at all (as indicated by the Fox service guide above). If it compresses you have one of two problems. #1 being you still have air bubbles in the FIT cartridge. Or #2 the rubber bladder/reservoir never fully expanded back to original shape (which is ballooned out) and moving the shaft to compress it caused the rubber bladder to balloon. A fully filled reservoir with oil should be ballooned. What I ultimately had to do was to hold the syringe with my left hand and apply force to push the syringe down against the nipple/FIT cartridge, then take the plunger of the syringe in my right hand, re-install the plunger into the syringe and push down gently to force additional oil into the FIT cartridge to fully expand the bladder/reservoir. <br />
<br />
Once the lockout assembly/valve is reinstalled and the excess oil on the top cap dumped out, try to push the shaft from the fully extended position, if it can't move you have successfully changed the oil in the FIT cartridge. We can now go and focus on putting the fork back together. <br />
<br />
<b>Installing the fork seals</b><br />
<br />
First thing to do is to use fox float fluid to soak the foam rings. <br />
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Place some of the float fluid onto your finger and swipe it around the bushings in both legs. Place the new foam rings with them already soaked in fox fluid into the fork legs.<br />
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Now take one of the new SKF low friction seals and coat the outer diameter with fox fluid.<br />
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Take the lubricated seal and place it onto your fox leg and push down with your fingers as best as you can.<br />
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If it doesn't fully seat (which is rare) you can use a Fox fork seal driver. You don't really need this tool. It is expensive. If you can't get it to fully seat and you don't want to spend 30 dollars for this driver which is just machined plastic with a lip, just take the back of a spoon and use it to push around the circumference of the seal until it is fully seated. Alternatively find an old PVC pipe and use it to push the seal down.<br />
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Do the same for both sides of the fork.<br />
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I lightly coated the left and right stanchions with a light oil (Triflow)<br />
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Slide the crown into the fork lower legs.You can slightly tilt the fork stanchions to help ease the insertion.<br />
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<br />
Now it is time to install the air piston back into the air side. The
air side is the left side of the fork when you are looking at your fork
with your bum on the saddle.<br />
<br />
Take some grease and apply
a light coat around the air piston. Make sure the small foam ring
around the air piston also is coated with Fox Float Fluid.<br />
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Now
it is time to push the air piston back into the left side fork bore. Be
careful when pushing the air piston back in. Try your best to ensure
the piston is going in straight and square. You do not want for the air
piston to catch on the threads of the crown. If this happens you
can damage the air piston and will cause your fork to not hold pressure later
on.<br />
<br />
Now invert the fork and add 20cc (Fox F100 RLC FIT) of Fox Red or Fox
Green or Silkolene Pro RSF 10wt or your Redline mix into the spring
side oil bath.<br />
<br />
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<br />
With
the fork still upside down, use one hand to hold the fork leg, while
the other hand's finger to push the air piston down in the bore such
that the threaded shaft will protrude past the hole. Do not flip the
fork back to the upright position. Oil will be spilled everywhere! Install a new plastic crush washer that is part of the Fox seal kit.<br />
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Torque the black nut to 50 inch lbs<br />
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<br />
Now invert the fork and add 10cc of Fox Float fluid into the bore.<br />
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<br />
Next step is to add a little bit of anti-seize to the crown's threads. This will prevent galling between the crown's threads, and the top cap's threads<br />
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<br />
Carefully thread the top cap with the shreader valve into the air piston side fork leg.<br />
<br />
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<br />
Tighten the top cap to 220 in-lb torque. For picture purposes I had to use one hand to hold the camera and the other to demonstrate the torquing. Make sure you use your second hand to apply downward pressure to the head/socket of the torque wrench to prevent the socket from slipping on the 26mm hex.<br />
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<br />
Air up the fork to 80 psi to extend the fork fully.<br />
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<br />
Re-install the blue cap<br />
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<br />
Now Re-install the FIT cartridge. You will need to guide the threaded shaft such that it comes out of the bottom of the leg. <br />
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<br />
Now install the black nut on to the bottom of the threaded section protruding past the fork leg. Use a new plastic crush washer from the Fox Seal service kit. Place the crush washer between the fork leg and the nut and torque to 50 inch lbs.<br />
<br />
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<br />
Now add 20cc (Fox F100 RLC FIT) of Fox Red or Fox Green or Silkolene Pro RSF 10wt or your Redline mix before installing the top cap. This will internally lubricate the FIT cartridge's shaft, and the stanchions.<br />
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<br />
Now push down on the top cap to start the threads into the crown. You may need to slightly turn the lockout assembly counter clockwise to get it out of "lockout".<br />
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<br />
Now put the ball back into the hole for that allows for the click when you turn the blue knob. You can apply a bit of grease to the ball and the hole to keep it sliding over time. It is best to pick up and place the ball with a small pair of needle nose pliers. <br />
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Apply little bit of grease to the back side of the blue adjusting knob<br />
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<br />
The installation of the RLC top cap can be quite tricky. This is where I break and I will copy and paste the section from Fox service guide.<br />
<br />
reference: <a href="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/F-Series/F100RLC_F80RLC.htm">http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/F-Series/F100RLC_F80RLC.htm</a><br />
<h4>
Install the RLC Topcap</h4>
<div>
Before starting the following procedure, The diagram below shows the graphic cross-sectional overview of the RLC topcap hardware.</div>
<ol>
<li value="1">Place the spring the
spring back into the detent, then place the ball bearing on top of the
spring.<br /><br /><img border="4" height="234" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/RLC_Topcap_07.jpg" style="border-bottom-style: Solid; border-bottom-width: 4px; border-left-style: Solid; border-left-width: 4px; border-right-style: Solid; border-right-width: 4px; border-top-style: Solid; border-top-width: 4px; float: none; height: 234px; width: 319px;" width="319" /></li>
</ol>
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<a href="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/rlc_topcapCallouts.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="492" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/rlc_topcapCallouts.gif" width="640" /></a></div>
<ol>
<li value="2">Place the low-speed compression
bezel onto the topcap. Align the multiple divots with the ball bearing;
do <b>not</b> align the divots with the
low-speed compression adjuster needle.<br /><br /><img border="4" height="240" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/RLC_Topcap_05.jpg" style="border-bottom-style: Solid; border-bottom-width: 4px; border-left-style: Solid; border-left-width: 4px; border-right-style: Solid; border-right-width: 4px; border-top-style: Solid; border-top-width: 4px; float: none; height: 240px; width: 320px;" width="320" /></li>
<li value="3">Place the lockout lever
on top of the low-speed compression bezel. Using the lever as a wrench,
turn the lockout lever clockwise as far as it will go. Take the lever
off, replace it and turn again until you are sure that you have turned
the adjuster shaft fully clockwise. Remove the lever one more time and
position it near the 6 o'clock position; this is now the locked-out position
of the fork. Turning the lever counterclockwise will unlock the fork.
However, note that the fork will mechanically be locked out once the lever
has past the 3 o'clock position, although it is a good idea to turn the
lever full counterclockwise anyway.<br /><br /><img border="4" height="240" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/RLC_Topcap_04.JPG" style="border-bottom-style: Solid; border-bottom-width: 4px; border-left-style: Solid; border-left-width: 4px; border-right-style: Solid; border-right-width: 4px; border-top-style: Solid; border-top-width: 4px; float: none; height: 240px; width: 320px;" width="320" /></li>
<li value="4">Using a 1.5 mm hex key
wrench, tighten the three set screws on top of the lockout lever. Do not
over tighten these set screws. Doing so will damage the lockout lever and
also the low-speed compression bezel. Over tightening the screws cause
the associated ball bearings to stress the surrounding aluminum surfaces,
causing permanent damage. To be safe, lightly tighten the screws, then
back off 1/2 turn. Turn the lockout lever and check for proper, smooth
operation.<br /><br /><img border="4" height="240" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/RLC_Topcap_03.JPG" style="border-bottom-style: Solid; border-bottom-width: 4px; border-left-style: Solid; border-left-width: 4px; border-right-style: Solid; border-right-width: 4px; border-top-style: Solid; border-top-width: 4px; float: none; height: 240px; width: 320px;" width="320" /></li>
<li value="5">Place the rebound knob
on top of the lockout lever. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.
<br /><br /><img border="4" height="249" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/RLC_Topcap_02.JPG" style="border-bottom-style: Solid; border-bottom-width: 4px; border-left-style: Solid; border-left-width: 4px; border-right-style: Solid; border-right-width: 4px; border-top-style: Solid; border-top-width: 4px; float: none; height: 249px; width: 319px;" width="319" /></li>
<li value="6">Using a 1.3 mm (0.050")
hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.<br /><br /><img border="4" height="265" src="http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/RLC_Topcap_01.JPG" style="border-bottom-color: #000000; border-bottom-style: Solid; border-bottom-width: 4px; border-left-color: #000000; border-left-style: Solid; border-left-width: 4px; border-right-color: #000000; border-right-style: Solid; border-right-width: 4px; border-top-color: #000000; border-top-style: Solid; border-top-width: 4px; float: none; height: 265px; width: 320px;" width="320" /></li>
</ol>
-------------- (end of Fox Service guide)<br />
<br />
Now re-install the red rebound adjust knob. Make sure to line up the set screw with the indent.<br />
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<br />
The final step is to take the sheet of paper you used to record down all your settings in Part 3 of 4 of these Posts. Air the fork to the desired pressure, set the rebound and compression back to where you had it.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-45464015388851242202012-04-16T06:30:00.000-04:002012-04-16T06:30:02.187-04:00TECH: Part 3 of 4 - How to replace seals, oils, and re-assembleOK, so you gave it some thought about having someone else do the work. Now you are reading this because you want to get your fork working perfectly for the 2012 season.<br />
<br />
This is going to be a long 2 part post; separated into how to disassemble your fork and remove the seals and then where to put new oil, how to bleed the FIT cartridge and then how to reassemble. If you have any doubts or your fork is not exactly the same as my (due to different year or slight model difference) please refer to http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/<br />
<br />
Another good resource is the Enduro Fork website: http://enduroforkseals.com/id10.html <br />
<br />
<br />
The fork being used for demonstration will be a 2011 Fox F100 RLC FIT. All Fox forks with the FIT cartridge will be similar. For non-FIT versions it is actually simpler. I'll try my best to point out where you need to do something different for a non-FIT version. <br />
<br />
First order of business. You need a clean working bench. This means vacuum up all the metal shavings from the last time you cut a fork steerer tube down to size. Clean up all the loose tools and such.<br />
<br />
Now grab your notepad and a pen. Get your shock pump and install it onto the shreader valve and read the pressure in the air spring. Write it down. Now go to your rebound damping knob, start counting each click as you turn it clockwise. Write down how many clicks it took to get the knob to stop clicking. Now do the same for the low speed compression dampening and also the lockout threshold.<br />
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<br />
Once you have all your settings written down, adjust all the settings to the mid point.<br />
<br />
<br />
The next step is to separate the lowers from the stanchions & crown. To do this you have to remove the two nuts at the bottom of the fork next to the quick release bosses. One side will have a red cap over it that allows you to adjust the rebound. You need to remove this red cap.<br />
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To remove the red cap you need to loosen the set screw (2mm hex key) and pull the red cap off.<br />
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The black nut is a 10mm hex nut. Take your 10mm wrench and loosen the nut.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9AP2KmxdgV8/T4nTnSSihMI/AAAAAAAABPA/lQvgHyRGC-c/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00033+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9AP2KmxdgV8/T4nTnSSihMI/AAAAAAAABPA/lQvgHyRGC-c/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00033+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Now take the black nut and invert it and screw it back onto the threaded shaft a few turns (don't screw it in all the way). Note the black nut has a plastic crush washer on the other side. Don't worry if you lose this used/old crush washer at this point in time, you will be installing a brand new one during the assembly. The brand new one comes with the fork seal kit from Fox. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u-ddS4uatRI/T4nUi0A3JOI/AAAAAAAABPQ/_AmgrThUIZg/s1600/invert+nut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u-ddS4uatRI/T4nUi0A3JOI/AAAAAAAABPQ/_AmgrThUIZg/s320/invert+nut.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Once you have all that done, take a small screw driver, a piece of paper
towel and cover the shreader valve and depress the valve to release all
the air out. Some oil will spray out and the point of the paper towel
is to make sure it doesn't spray everywhere.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
When you release all the air pressure from the air spring side the fork will compress (shorten). Now you have to dislodge the air spring shaft. Do so by tapping the nut with a plastic faced hammer.<br />
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<span id="goog_1823602150"></span><span id="goog_1823602151"></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gYU3Ws5wrec/T4nVJixy27I/AAAAAAAABPY/dfj-WeEriPQ/s1600/tap+the+inverted+nut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gYU3Ws5wrec/T4nVJixy27I/AAAAAAAABPY/dfj-WeEriPQ/s320/tap+the+inverted+nut.jpg" width="312" /></a></div>
<br />
Once the nut bottoms out remove the black nut, and take a long hex key and push the shaft all the way into the fork lowers as far as it will go. Oil will drain out, so have a container ready.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AY9wEUctUSA/T4nWE2EqCRI/AAAAAAAABPg/spg7B1yPs7Y/s1600/oil+drain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AY9wEUctUSA/T4nWE2EqCRI/AAAAAAAABPg/spg7B1yPs7Y/s320/oil+drain.jpg" width="278" /></a></div>
<br />
Now remove the black nut on the damper side of the fork the same way you did the air spring side. Once the black nut butts against the fork leg, remove the black nut and use an allen key to drive the shaft as far into the leg it will go. <br />
<br />
The next step is to remove the two top caps from the fork. The hex size is 26mm. Take a 26 mm socket and carefully remove the top cap. Do this by applying pressure down socket so that there is zero chance the socket will skip off the top cap. The top cap is made from Aluminum and the hex height is very shallow so it can be easily damage if the socket slips.It doesn't matter which side you start first. I chose to do the damper side first. <br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Once you have overcome the torque and the top cap is loose. Un-thread the rest by hand.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
Once you had the top cap loosened off completely from the threads in the upper crown you can pull the damper (aka FIT cartridge) straight out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NY5Z-uZoODI/T4nX8X9VlRI/AAAAAAAABP4/x6fLTzYsgiA/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00038+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NY5Z-uZoODI/T4nX8X9VlRI/AAAAAAAABP4/x6fLTzYsgiA/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00038+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Now remove the top cap for the air spring side.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Tilt the fork upside down over your container to drain the Fox Float Fluid from the air piston side. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E3B78JbVdHQ/T4ncFMI-AxI/AAAAAAAABQA/wRNBLLmhPmM/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00039+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E3B78JbVdHQ/T4ncFMI-AxI/AAAAAAAABQA/wRNBLLmhPmM/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00039+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Ignore the red inside the container, that was left over crud from another project)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Take an allen key and locate the end of the threaded shaft for the air piston side. This will push the air piston up, you will need to continue pushing until your fingers can grab the air piston out of the upper fork crown.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l9rhQlOLYuU/T4nc9WJ4tQI/AAAAAAAABQI/f9y4e66-x9Q/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00041+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l9rhQlOLYuU/T4nc9WJ4tQI/AAAAAAAABQI/f9y4e66-x9Q/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00041+%28Large%29.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Once you have the fork broken down into its various sub-assemblies it looks like this. Take note that once your fork is taken apart you need to treat all the individual pieces with extra care. Treat time like they are fine china. DO NOT DROP THE CROWN/STANCHION onto the floor!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8qvBPRgDVpA/T4ndhkn1PxI/AAAAAAAABQQ/fJA6tW3DkVE/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00042+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8qvBPRgDVpA/T4ndhkn1PxI/AAAAAAAABQQ/fJA6tW3DkVE/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00042+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Now we begin to take the fork seals out of the lower leg.<br />
<br />
You have two options.<br />
<br />
1.) use small screw drivers and work the seal out of the bore and then chisel the seal out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cSYA0GYVdw0/T4neQtlrCEI/AAAAAAAABQY/i0OzAAK95U4/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00043+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cSYA0GYVdw0/T4neQtlrCEI/AAAAAAAABQY/i0OzAAK95U4/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00043+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CpXTYpdDg7w/T4neUUyJMgI/AAAAAAAABQg/tvFFK3BDTJ4/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00044+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CpXTYpdDg7w/T4neUUyJMgI/AAAAAAAABQg/tvFFK3BDTJ4/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00044+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
2.) Use the open end of an 18mm wrench to hook one jaw into the seal and pry up (This is what Fox recommends for the 32mm Talas forks.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9yujOrEHDw/T4ne7mPnx3I/AAAAAAAABQo/NnTEUxDzeGc/s1600/option1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9yujOrEHDw/T4ne7mPnx3I/AAAAAAAABQo/NnTEUxDzeGc/s400/option1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Don't forget you can always use a combination of #1 and #2. It all depends on your luck. I used option 2 to get the seal dislodged from the lower fork legs. Once there is a gap I used a screw driver and tapped the seal out like I was using the screw driver as a chisel.<br />
<br />
Don't this for both sides to get both left and right side seals out. The foam rings on both sides are found below the main seals. Remove those too. You will not be able to reuse these seals as they will be damaged during the removal process. They go into the garbage.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CwLDUWoNzzU/T4nfIHjZw2I/AAAAAAAABQw/XJzMNIC-1gE/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00046+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CwLDUWoNzzU/T4nfIHjZw2I/AAAAAAAABQw/XJzMNIC-1gE/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00046+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yCP5glNPY7Q/T4nfuxWuxEI/AAAAAAAABQ4/HJb3cwUAbt0/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00047+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yCP5glNPY7Q/T4nfuxWuxEI/AAAAAAAABQ4/HJb3cwUAbt0/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00047+%28Large%29.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now take everything to a big sink. Grab an old tooth brush and wash everything in hot soapy water.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQLmmi67ru4/T4ngHqGM77I/AAAAAAAABRA/xkrFUvd3SuM/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00048+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQLmmi67ru4/T4ngHqGM77I/AAAAAAAABRA/xkrFUvd3SuM/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00048+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Allow everything to dry overnight. If you can't wait make sure to towel dry everything. <br />
<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JoRHE3chxC0/T4ngZc1M-0I/AAAAAAAABRI/aWh7_HOHA0g/s1600/Mississauga-20120303-00049+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JoRHE3chxC0/T4ngZc1M-0I/AAAAAAAABRI/aWh7_HOHA0g/s320/Mississauga-20120303-00049+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Next post will deal with changing the oil in the FIT cartridge and reassembly. You will need to prepare the following oil volumes depending on your Fox Fork model and year. <br />
<br />
http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/oil_volumes.htm<br />
<br />
Please let me know if you have any questions or if you find something that was confusing. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-63522303271297708322012-04-12T06:30:00.000-04:002012-04-27T21:12:03.346-04:00TECH: Part 2 of 4 - Annual service on Fox Forks (reality check)Hopefully<a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/04/tech-part-1-how-to-do-annual-service-on.html"> TECH: Part 1 - How to do an annual service on Fox Forks</a> has got you interested in keeping up with the require maintenance on your Fox fork. Before we get too far let's do a quick reality check.<br />
<br />
You've removed the fork from your bike and gave her a good wash. Now is also an oppertune time to send the fork out to the pros to have them do the work for you.<br />
<br />
fox service centre (fox canada) Fox usa<br />
<a href="http://www.pushindustries.com/">Push Industries</a> charges $179 USD (USA)<br />
<a href="http://www.hippietechsuspension.com/">Hippie Tech</a> charges $75 (USA)<br />
<a href="http://suspensionwerx.com/">Suspension Werx</a> charges $? (located in Vancouver, BC, Canada)<br />
Local Bike Store ~$100<br />
<br />
The cost for you to do this on your own:<br />
(using http://www.universalcycles.com/ as a benchmark on acquiring the supplies)<br />
<a href="http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=44578&category=705">Fox 2012 low friction SKF seal kit</a> - $25 ($39.99 MSRP if you live in Canada)<br />
<a href="http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1820&category=705">Fox Float Fluid</a> - $15<br />
<a href="http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1821&category=705">Fox suspension oil</a> - $23<br />
<br />
MixMizer syringe from walmart $8<br />
Rubber Vacuum Nipples from autozone/pepboys/canadian tire $7<br />
26 mm 6-point socket to open the top cap (most people won't have this size socket) $17<br />
Park Tool TW-2 Torque Wrench (3/8- Inch Drive, 0-600 inch Lbs) $45<br />
A bench vice ~$50 (lowes/home depot/auto parts store)<br />
<br />
Total cost if you are lacking the tools is: $140 (more if you live in Canada). The important point to keep in mind is that with all the supplies and tools listed, the following year's service will only cost another <a href="http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=44578&category=705">Fox 2012 low friction SKF seal kit</a> for $25 ($39.99 MSRP if you live in Canada).<br />
<br />
On a scale of 1 to 10. 10 being most difficult, an oil change on your fox fork is around <b>7</b>, provided that nothing is broken and needs serious diagnosing. <br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-5597140103109874742012-04-10T06:30:00.000-04:002012-04-27T21:11:48.149-04:00TECH: Part 1 of 4 - How to do an annual service on Fox ForksSo for many parts of the world spring is fast approaching or is already here. This means you probably need to get your ride tuned up for the upcoming race season. Hopefully you also kept your body tuned up too. <br />
<br />
This multi-day post will focus on what you need to do to service your Fox 32mm F-series fork to ensure consistent reliable performance for many years.<br />
<br />
This guide is just the full blown annual service. It will not explain how to fix problems and assumes your fork was in proper working function before this service.<br />
<br />
Just remember routine regular maintenance means less cost over the long run as you don't need to replace expensive parts to get it working again. <br />
<br />
First order of business is to gather up on supplies.<br />
<br />
Walmart for this:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.rangeracceleration.com/hosted_jpgs/Clutch.fluid.syringe.2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.rangeracceleration.com/hosted_jpgs/Clutch.fluid.syringe.2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Then go to an autoparts store (Canadian Tire, Parts Source, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc). Go ask the guy at the counter for vacuum caps. You want the small assorted package on the right. You will trim the rubber cap end off so it becomes a plug/adapter for the syringe to the FIT dampener cartridge.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.johnmckown.com/forums/Pair/caps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="http://www.johnmckown.com/forums/Pair/caps.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Buy new seals. For 2012 Fox contracted design of new seals to SKF industries. Whatever you do make sure you buy these new seals as they are miles better than the previous ones for sealing and a lot less drag.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.sicklines.com/news-images/skf_mtb_fork_sealss.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://www.sicklines.com/news-images/skf_mtb_fork_sealss.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/20110623-105102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/20110623-105102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Buy fork oil aka Fox Float fluid. Depending on year of your fork you either need 7.5wt or 10wt.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.foxracingshox.com/storepics/product_124-670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.foxracingshox.com/storepics/product_124-670.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
Fox Flat 10wt Red is the same as silkolene pro rsf 10wt and probably a lot cheaper. Call around to various motorcycle dealers and inquire.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/product_images/silkolene_pro_rsf_10wt_1_litre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/product_images/silkolene_pro_rsf_10wt_1_litre.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I went with Redline suspension oil as I have been using their oils for a very long time when I used to race cars. If you live in the greater Toronto Area you can buy it from <a href="http://www.jrponline.com/cs/">JRP</a>. If you go the redline route you will need to buy their heavy weight and medium weight and mix the two so that you get the same viscosity index as 10wt Fox fluid.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/28.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/28.png" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/29.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/29.png" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/bikesuspension.htm">Peter Verdone </a>talks about how to mix the two redline oils together to get the same viscosity as Fox 7.5wt you need. If you want to read up about the theory of dampers and oil viscosity go here: http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid<br />
<br />
To ease in the math on how to get Redline Medium + Redline Heavy to be at the same viscosity as Fox 7.5wt you need to mix:<br />
<br />
<b><span id="spMA">81.1% Redline Medium + </span><span id="spMB">18.9% Redline Heavy = <u>Fox 7.5wt. </u></span></b><br />
<br />
<br />
<span id="spMB">If you have a newer Fox fork it will call for Fox 10wt or </span>silkolene pro rsf 10wt. Silkolene Pro RSF 10wt has
47.36 cSt @ 40C. Therefore to replicate this with redline oil you need to mix:<br />
<br />
<b>42% Redline Medium + 58% Redline Heavy =<u> Fox 10wt = silkolene pro rsf 10wt</u></b><br />
<br />
(reference <a href="http://www.provire.com/index.php/mtb/">Suspension Oil Blend Viscosity Calculator</a>) <br />
<span id="spMB"><br /></span><br />
<span id="spMB">Tools you are going to need:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span id="spMB">Metric allen key set (hex keys)</span></li>
<li><span id="spMB">Small rubber mallet or block of wood</span></li>
<li><span id="spMB">old ice cream container or yogurt container to contain the used oil</span></li>
<li><span id="spMB">torque wrench</span></li>
<li><span id="spMB">hex bits for torque wrench</span></li>
<li><span id="spMB">metric wrenches (8mm and 10mm)</span></li>
<li><span id="spMB">shock pump</span></li>
</ul>
<span id="spMB">First order of business is to remove your fork from your bike. Remove your front brake caliper from your fork, Undo the aheadset cap bolt, remove the aheadset cap, loosen the stem bolts, remove your fork. Tie or tape everything to your frame so it's not just left hanging in mid air and in the way.</span><br />
<span id="spMB"><br /></span><br />
<span id="spMB"></span><br />
<span id="spMB">Take your fork and go wash it with hot soapy water. You don't want to have dirt and sand fall into critical areas when you take apart the fork. Towel dry your fork or allow to dry overnight. </span><br />
<span id="spMB"><br /></span><br />
<span id="spMB">with all the loose bolts, thread them back into where they came from so you don't loose them. Here is a pictorial guide on what you need to do.</span><br />
<span id="spMB"><br /></span><br />
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<span id="spMB"><br /></span><br />
<span id="spMB"><br /></span><br />
<span id="spMB">Next post will discuss taking apart your fox fork to get to the seals.</span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-17752080751013281172012-03-30T06:00:00.000-04:002012-03-30T06:00:16.603-04:00Buying a new crankset. Shimano XTR FC-M985Here is a quick guide on how to figure out if your frame is compatible with Shimano's new XTR Cranksets.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/2011-shimano-xtr-fc-m985-crankset-2x10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/2011-shimano-xtr-fc-m985-crankset-2x10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Currently Shimano offers two variants of the crank. Trial and Race.<br />
<br />
<b>Race FC-M985</b><br />
chain ring sizes: 40-28T/ 42-30T/ 44-30T (all double)<br />
crank arm lengths: 170/175/180mm<br />
Chain line: 48.8mm<br />
<br />
<b>Trial FC-M980</b><br />
chain ring sizes 42-32-24T (triple) / 38-26T (double)<br />
crank arm lengths: 165/170/175/180mm<br />
Chain line: Triple: 50mm Double: 46.8mm<br />
<br />
For the Hack Racer in you the ideal setup on a 26" wheeled bike is the Race crankset if it fits. The M985 is 3mm narrower in Q factor than the M980 (I do not know the exact Q factor as calling both Shimano Canada and Shimano USA could not get me an exact number). The Q factor is how wide the crank arms are from outside face to outside face. A narrow Q factor in theory increases pedaling efficiency as well as <a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/01/retul-fit-in-depth-review.html">better knee angle tracing</a>.<br />
<br />
For my bike I was looking on replacing the Middleburn RS8 DUO crankset I had on it for several years. The RS8 was a good crankset but the downfall was the ISIS bottom bracket. 3 years ago Middleburn did not offer their external bearing version. So I was forced to choose between ISIS or square taper. I chose ISIS and went with an American Classic BB which has replaceable bearings. After replacing them every 2 months for 3 years I said enough was enough and decided to run a reliable crankset. <br />
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<a href="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll123/cheers_cervelo/IMG_3052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll123/cheers_cervelo/IMG_3052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
With modern day double cranksets they get tricky because the axle is integrated. This means the width of the crankset can not be changed by selecting a different bottom bracket like in the past. Past being ISIS and Square taper, or even Octa-link. So now you need to measure exactly and purchase the correct crankset or else you are stuck.<br />
<br />
Shimano actually acknowledges that the M985 may not fit on all frames. So they have this paper template. The only cavet is that you have to have the Bottom Bracket (SM-BB90-A) installed in your frame. Luckily I had a spare.<br />
<br />
Take this template (<a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bwaf0hFwF21Qa0N6TU85MFBUSFdNY2w2TjJxYzdUQQ">click here for PDF version</a>). <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DnBEzg27-Wc/T3OeGIFAb9I/AAAAAAAABMg/7wmOBon7rFA/s1600/Scanned+at+02-03-2012+20-58+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DnBEzg27-Wc/T3OeGIFAb9I/AAAAAAAABMg/7wmOBon7rFA/s640/Scanned+at+02-03-2012+20-58+PM.jpg" width="462" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bwaf0hFwF21Qa0N6TU85MFBUSFdNY2w2TjJxYzdUQQ">Print the PDF version of the document</a> 100% size with no scaling. Then glue the printout to a stiff piece of bristo-board (the brown stiff paper back on note pads or cereal box or go to Staples). Then cut it out exact. Install the drive (right side) bottom bracket cup from a XTR or XT crankset. Stick the paper template into the bottom bracket and see if any bit of the paper will touch your frame.<br />
<br />
Once you confirm, you can order what you need.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-79328285981882542572012-03-29T06:30:00.000-04:002012-03-29T06:30:00.679-04:00Pictures from 2012 Taipei Bicycle Show<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/themes/parallelus-unite/includes/timthumb.php?src=/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/taipeicycle.jpg&w=566&h=133&zc=1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/themes/parallelus-unite/includes/timthumb.php?src=/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/taipeicycle.jpg&w=566&h=133&zc=1" /></a></div>
<br />
Some select pictures from the 2012 Taipei Bicycle show. I asked my friend Winston from http://www.fridayfitness.ca/ to help me take some quick pics while he was manning the RETÜL booth.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/team.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/team.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RETÜL Booth with <a href="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/">Friday Fitness</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One day I will take up his offer to attend the taipei bicycle show in person. Hopefully with my very own CAD model of a full carbon mountain bike frame complete with layup specification and fibre orientation and thousands of hours of FEA completed. At the Taipei Bicycle Show it is not just bicycle companies like Trek, Giant, or specialized showing off their latest models for sale. There are also the companies behind the scenes who manufacture the actual carbon fibre sheets or strands who then sell to the factories that make the carbon fibre frames. If you have a design and enough capital you can start your very own bicycle company. One day my dream will materialize.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0Taipei City, Taiwan25.091075 121.559834524.976033 121.401906 25.206117 121.71776299999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-8666775898990120622012-03-26T06:30:00.000-04:002012-03-26T06:30:02.419-04:00www.fridayfitness.ca - Top bicycle fitter and coaching services in Asia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L-BVL-CruSw/T26dldpDokI/AAAAAAAABII/8iKLH44yXAc/s1600/25-03-2012+12-22-03+AM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L-BVL-CruSw/T26dldpDokI/AAAAAAAABII/8iKLH44yXAc/s640/25-03-2012+12-22-03+AM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
My good friend and fellow racer Winston has recently moved from Canada to Taiwan. In doing so he is setting up a new shop in Taipei specializing in:<br />
<ul>
<li>Professional 3D Certified Bike Fitting</li>
<li>Personal Training</li>
<li>Coaching </li>
</ul>
For those who have read about my past review of the <a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/01/retul-fit-in-depth-review.html">RETÜL 3D fit </a>system you will know that is it worth every penny and second spent. <br />
<br />
If you are serious about speed and want the best. Contact Winston @ <a href="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/">Friday Fitness</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/themes/parallelus-unite/includes/timthumb.php?src=/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/cards.jpg&w=566&h=133&zc=1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/themes/parallelus-unite/includes/timthumb.php?src=/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/cards.jpg&w=566&h=133&zc=1" /></a></div>
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He is "the guy" for RETÜL in Taiwan and adjacent Asian countries. <br />
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<a href="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/team.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://www.fridayfitness.ca/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/team.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fully equipped with the first and only MÜVE Fit bike in Taiwan!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0Taipei City, Taiwan25.091075 121.559834524.976033 121.401906 25.206117 121.71776299999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-2794216282835632502012-03-21T06:30:00.001-04:002012-03-21T06:30:03.655-04:00Extralite custom front wheel = Extra good! from Troy @ Fair Wheel BikesI'm always a fan of custom wheelsets. With custom wheelsets you can always choose exactly what you want. Whether it be color, weight, price, size, lacing pattern, brands, you name it, it's selectable. The only exception is for <a href="http://www.industrynine.net/">industry9 wheelsets</a> where you can really pretty anodized aluminum spokes.<br />
<br />
I don't know about you, but I find a lot of joy in selecting components for wheel builds. So unless you or I are a sponsored rider and told to use brand X and model Y. I feel we should ride exactly what we want to ride.<br />
<br />
Troy Watson may have been a name you've heard of before. Especially if you frequent <a href="http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wheels-tires/">Road Bike Review</a> or <a href="http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/">Weight Weenies</a>. Troy is also behind <a href="http://www.ligerowheels.com/">Ligero Wheelworks</a>, where he had his own custom hubs made to his specifications. They were really cool because both the front and rear hubs were optimized to have wide flanges to increase stiffness of the wheel by bracing angle. He also used Phil Wood bearings for both front and rear hubs. In the rear hub he used White Industries rear hub internals and was optimized for triplet lacing. To say he knows his stuff is an understatement. <br />
<br />
In 2011 he joined <a href="http://fairwheelbikes.com/">Fair Wheel Bikes</a>, a top end shop in USA specializing in the best of the best of cycling goods and all the wheels coming out of there are now hand built by Troy.<br />
<br />
In the build I asked Troy to make for me I took into several considerations: <br />
<ol>
<li>Weight</li>
<li>Durability/Reliability</li>
<li>Cost</li>
</ol>
The specification of the front wheel I dreamed of was:<br />
<ul>
<li>Extralite HyperFront QR15 configuration, 32h</li>
<li>Stan's NoTubes Alpine 32h rim </li>
<li>Sapim CX ray spokes</li>
<li>Alloy nipples</li>
<li>Stan's Yellow Tape </li>
</ul>
The reason why I chose these parts was to fully optimize for a QR15 setup on my <a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/01/2011-rocky-mountain-element-team-rsl.html">2011 Rocky Mountain Team RSL</a> build up. QR15 forks and wheelsets typically cost the rider a weight penalty to get the extra stiffness. Normally I would skip on going QR15 as you need to optimize your headtube and fork steerer interface before you can take advantage of QR15. In the case of my <a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/01/2011-rocky-mountain-element-team-rsl.html">2011 Rocky Mountain Team RSL</a> frame it sports a tapered head tube for which I matched it with a <a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/01/foxy-fork-black-f100-rlc-fit-qr15.html">2011 Fox F100 RLC tapered fork</a>. <br />
<br />
The extralite front hub I believe is the lightest front hub available to the mass market. With 32 holes the durability and reliability of the overall wheel should not be a concern. Especially for cross country application. Sapim CX-Rays in my opinion offer the best performance for the money. You can go lighter with Sapim SuperSpoke or even Pillar Titanium spokes, but the cost and performance of the Sapim can't be matched. The DTswiss aerolite spoke offers the same level of performance as the Sapim CX-ray but at an extra cost above the Sapim. <br />
<br />
Giving Troy these build spec and some dialogue via email he said it would be an ideal build. So the go ahead of was given to build the wheel. <br />
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<br />
Troy optimized the spoke weights by customizing their length. Troy explains it,<br />
<br />
<i>"The spokes are not really much lighter but technically they are. What I
do is take a cx-ray that has 9mm of thread and 10mm of 2mm round section
above it and recut the threads up higher. I normally do about 6mm so
you are loosing 6mm of thickest part of the spoke. It doesn't add up to
much but it is a little. It will take a cx-ray from being about 4.7g
each to 4.3-4.4g each. It is mainly a neat thing to tell other weight
weenies that you had done."</i><br />
<br />
Fair Wheel Bikes has the Phil Wood Spoke and threading machine. Which is the only way to cut a spoke. If someone is telling you that they took a dremel and used a die to cut new threads walk away immediately. The only way someone should cut a spoke and rethread it is by rolling the threads.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j6Ms0dFiG94/T2ZqIserDKI/AAAAAAAABG4/ERlVqvib3xI/s1600/don%27t+use+a+die.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j6Ms0dFiG94/T2ZqIserDKI/AAAAAAAABG4/ERlVqvib3xI/s200/don%27t+use+a+die.JPG" width="183" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Rolling the threads means the threads are cold worked which increases thread strength. This is done by rolling the threads on two flat dies rather than using a cylindrical die and shearing away material. <br />
<br />
This video that Troy made demonstrates how the <a href="http://www.philwood.com/products/tools/spokemach.php">Phil Wood Spoke Cutting and Threading Machine</a> works.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7-t--jccD4U" width="420"></iframe> </div>
<br />
<br />
This ladies and gentlemen is one of the reasons why you go to a top end wheel builder rather than your lcoal bike store. How many of you can tell me that your local bike store has a $3900 USD spoke cutting and threading machine?<br />
<br />
Troy first uses a jig to define the lacing pattern of the wheel he is going to build with the hub mounted. For the Extralite Hyperfront hub you are limited as the non-braking side of the hub is designed to be radially laced to increase lateral stiffness and the braking side must be in a cross pattern to counter the load from the disc brake rotor. The lacing pattern was set by Troy Watson to be radial non drive (aka non brake side) side and 3 cross x 16 on the brake side. <br />
<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-66rv49DGE9A/T2ZrMag_6OI/AAAAAAAABHA/fQXiQcHxm5g/s1600/IMAG0280+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-66rv49DGE9A/T2ZrMag_6OI/AAAAAAAABHA/fQXiQcHxm5g/s320/IMAG0280+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I wish I had a jig like this because it allows you to carefully place the rim and work from above. Final truing of the wheel is then done on a Park Master Truing stand (I missed the chance to buy one a few years back when Troy was selling a spare he had), it is the best truing stand ever made commercially and is no longer offered by Park Tools.<br />
<br />
The final weight of the front wheel: <br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hx0cbPtcDls/T2ZsYcDT8OI/AAAAAAAABHI/yjyR2yZqUBY/s1600/IMAG0283+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hx0cbPtcDls/T2ZsYcDT8OI/AAAAAAAABHI/yjyR2yZqUBY/s320/IMAG0283+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jw_bsWQZqA/T2ZuQAcW14I/AAAAAAAABHQ/pXFI82ht24Q/s1600/wheel+weight.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="114" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jw_bsWQZqA/T2ZuQAcW14I/AAAAAAAABHQ/pXFI82ht24Q/s320/wheel+weight.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
In the past I have gone through many different wheel builders in the USA. Each time I had a very pleasant experience. This time I chose Fair Wheel Bikes because I have had Troy build for me in the past and he is now at Fair Wheel Bikes. <a href="http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/updates-and-news/fair-wheel-custom-wheel-program.html">Fair Wheel Bikes</a> has all parts on hand which means zero wait time. Labour is included in the total price of the build, which is the sum of all the individual parts of the wheel I chose. There is no way I could replicate the skill and knowledge that Troy has. His attention to detail is truly amazing. Emails and phone calls are always promptly responded. <br />
<br />
Once the trails here are opened up I will follow up with a review on what it is like to ride a work of art.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/updates-and-news/fair-wheel-custom-wheel-program.html">Fair Wheel Bikes custom wheel program</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Example of what Troy can do.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.hackracer.com/2012/03/new-old-stock-1995-clark-kent-pineapple.html">New Old Stock - 1995 Clark Kent Pineapple Front hub made into a Front road wheel</a><br />
<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9p3SxMliYo/T2auFsyOPmI/AAAAAAAABHw/LPa5t9tXlR8/s1600/3672240872_5c47d1e0e6_o+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9p3SxMliYo/T2auFsyOPmI/AAAAAAAABHw/LPa5t9tXlR8/s320/3672240872_5c47d1e0e6_o+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Whatever you dream of, Troy and Fair Wheel Bikes can build it. <br />
<br /><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-81713637694103708122012-03-20T06:30:00.000-04:002012-03-20T06:30:01.837-04:00Don't pay full price... Surf for deals and HaggleI'm sure there has got to be someone who follows my blog who is in the cycling industry or own even a store. So this might offend them.<br />
<br />
Bottom line: Money in my pocket is better than money in your pocket.<br />
<br />
This statement is what I believe to be the cardinal rule for a consumer. It doesn't matter if you have got millions or just pennies. Don't settle for paying high management expense ratios on mutual funds. Just find the stocks the mutual funds hold and buy them yourself in your discount brokerage account. Don't pay full price for a car. Call 10 dealerships with the exact trim level and color and ask what is their best price.<br />
<br />
This holds true for cycling goods. Cycling for many is a hobby or leisure activity. You want to maximize bang for the buck.<br />
<br />
It's too bad that the amazon app doesn't exist for blackberry phones running OS7+. I'm surprised to find that amazon.com is making such a big push into cycling. It will dramatically change the business model of bike stores and distributors. Amazon.com's pricing is amazing to say the least. For example Shimano XTR FC-M985 28/40T crankset stocked and shipped by <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Speed-Mountain-Bicycle-Crank/dp/B004HFJ89S?tag=blog2011-20" target="_blank">Amazon.com themselves is $438.51 USD</a>. Next closest price is <a href="http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XTR-M985-10SPD-Double-Crankset" target="_blank">JensonUSA @ $445.00</a>. JensonUSA and other online discount retailers in the past always<br />
had the best price. <br />
<br />
Now if only <a href="http://www.amazon.ca/">http://www.amazon.ca/</a> would follow along. That would decimate the Canadian distributors and lift the strangle hold they have on local bike stores. Allowing the local bike store to at least come close to USA local bike store pricing. <br />
<br />
this is a repost from: <a href="http://www.dirtragmag.com/webrag/specialized-warns-dealers-new-price-checking-app" target="_blank">http://www.dirtragmag.com/</a><br />
<h1 class="title">
</h1>
<h1 class="title">
Specialized warns dealers of new price-checking app</h1>
<div class="meta">
<span class="submitted">Submitted by Adam Newman on Thu, 12/29/2011 - 15:53</span> </div>
<div class="meta">
</div>
By Adam Newman<br />
<br />
Specialized is warning local bike shops that a new app from
Amazon.com could seriously undercut their business. In a letter to
dealers from Specialized's founder and president Mike Sinyard warns that
<a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/price-check-by-amazon/id398434750?mt=8" target="_blank">the app</a>,
which allows customers to scan a bar code and find an item for sale
online and make the purchase from their phone - often cheaper than in
the store - would effectively turn a local bike shop into a fitting room
for online retailers.<br />
<br />
The Amazon.com <a href="http://www.amazon.com/l/3403201/ref=amb_link_85930971_4" target="_blank">cycling storefront</a>
includes "featured brands" Mavic, Crank Bros., Yakima, Thule,
Diamondback, and Schwinn. Shimano and Pearl Izumi are other major brands
sold through Amazon.<br />
In <a href="http://www.bicycleretailer.com/downloads/news/Sinyard%20letter.txt" target="_blank">the letter</a>,
Sinyard tells dealers that by ordering, stocking, and servicing these
brands, they are supporting Amazon.com's sales while undercutting their
own. Specialized even produced a <a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1462245649" target="_blank">video demonstrating exactly how the app is used</a><a href="http://www.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/video/amazon_ibd_app_2a.mov">.</a><br />
<br />
As a sign of Amazon.com's commitment to cycling sales, it recently
hired Paul Calandrella away from Specialized and named him Senior Vendor
Manager for Cycling.<br />
<br />
On of the major brands also sold on Amazon, Easton-Bell Sports -
maker of Bell and Giro helmets and apparel - recently brought a lawsuit
against Specialized, alleging that the Specialized was encouraging
dealers not to stock Bell and Giro products. That lawsuit has since been
withdrawn.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-1979927438124112732012-03-19T06:30:00.000-04:002012-03-19T06:30:03.446-04:00New Old Stock - 1995 Clark Kent Pineapple Front hub<br />
New Tip of the week. Be Different! Be Unique.<br />
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Forget about the cookie cutter factory pre-built wheels from Mavic or Shimano.<br />
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What I have managed to find is a New Old Stock (NOS) 1995 Clark Kent Pineapple Front hub. Remember back in the early days of mountain biking with tie dye neon color schemes and anodized parts? Everyone was making components also. These hubs were marketed by Clark Kent based out of Colorado. <span class="postbody">They were machined in Colorado in the early-mid 90's by Royal Bicycle Works.</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/pineapple_colors_854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/pineapple_colors_854.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span class="postbody">The hub I have comes from a forum member with the name pkryz or </span><a class="bigusername" href="http://forums.mtbr.com/member.php?u=246030" rel="nofollow">pkrzystyniak</a> <span class="postbody">on MTBR and <a href="http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10433&highlight=">Retro Bike</a>. pkryz claimed that his father gave him the remaining stock of the hubs. This would mean that his father ran Royal Bicycle works in the mid 90s. pkryz was selling off this stock back starting in 2004. I purchased my hub in 2008 from a forum member on Retro Bike. </span><br />
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<span class="postbody">The intention of this unique hub was to do a snow flake pattern where the spokes are twisted. </span><br />
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<span class="postbody">The hubs are a perfect definition of the saying </span>"form over function" design. "Sometimes things are done because they look cool."<br />
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Here is a brief history of Clark Kent Hubs<br />
<a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mtb-news.de%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D560410&act=url">English</a><br />
<a href="http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=560410%20">German</a><br />
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Here is my particular hub. No longer a tree ornament or in someone's closet collecting dust.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EMws5erqaH8/T2armaO6A-I/AAAAAAAABHY/tX6DDOOhgSw/s1600/IMG_3389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EMws5erqaH8/T2armaO6A-I/AAAAAAAABHY/tX6DDOOhgSw/s320/IMG_3389.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ty0EySVcHNg/T2arsw2AM_I/AAAAAAAABHg/o7GKs5tww8E/s1600/IMG_3393.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ty0EySVcHNg/T2arsw2AM_I/AAAAAAAABHg/o7GKs5tww8E/s320/IMG_3393.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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As you can see it is by no means a light front hub. It is even heavier than a Chris King Classic 100mm hub. Don't forget that Chris King only really started shipping hubs in higher volume at around the 1992 time frame. The front wheel that this Clark Kent Pineapple will be taking over on my road bike has a Chris King hubset from 1993!<br />
<br />Since I have not the slightest idea on how to lace this Clark Kent Pineapple hub. I emailed many popular professional wheel builders who frequent MTBR/Road Bike Review/Weight Weenies. Only 1 wheel builder accepted. Troy Watson owner of <a href="http://www.ligerowheels.com/">Ligero Wheels</a>. He currently is at <a href="http://fairwheelbikes.com/">Fair Wheel Bikes</a>. The idea was to make use of this hub for my road bike. A 2006 Cervelo Soloist. Road bikes are 100mm spacing for the front fork just like mountain bikes. However hubs without disc rotor mounting are pretty much obsolete to the mountain bike community. You rarely see people on V-brakes anymore on the trails. The fact that road bikes are still on 100mm and also do not utilize disc brakes means I could still pay homage to the old school days of mid 90s mountain biking.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qH5bv6xzHxk/T2auBFofR_I/AAAAAAAABHo/cGSNEoNyO8o/s1600/3671435095_fc03201a4f_o+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qH5bv6xzHxk/T2auBFofR_I/AAAAAAAABHo/cGSNEoNyO8o/s320/3671435095_fc03201a4f_o+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This Pineapple front hub has 32 spoke holes. I believe that Clark Kent
only ever made 32 hole versions. 8 holes on each flange (outer, middle,
middle, outer).<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9p3SxMliYo/T2auFsyOPmI/AAAAAAAABHw/LPa5t9tXlR8/s1600/3672240872_5c47d1e0e6_o+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9p3SxMliYo/T2auFsyOPmI/AAAAAAAABHw/LPa5t9tXlR8/s320/3672240872_5c47d1e0e6_o+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is what Troy had to say after finishing the wheel:<br />
<i><br /></i><br />
<i>I
built the front wheel a total of 3 times trying different spoke
patterns. I thought I was going to be able to lace it like two 16 spoke
1x wheels but it did not work out. The way I calculated the spoke
lengths on the final build was figuring the lengths for 3x then taking
into account how much the spokes would be pulled in and out and adding
to the length to compensate. The tensions are actually the same or very,
very close between the inner and outer flanges because of the way the
spokes are interleaved. When you look at the wheel from the front you
can see what the designer was thinking of. The spokes form to small
triangles with a larger single triangle sitting on top. If the spokes
were rigid members it may have actually made the wheels stiffer but
because spokes are tensioned wires it did nothing but make for a unique
looking wheel.</i><br />
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The final spec on the wheel was:<br />
Mavic Open Pro 32h Rim<br />
DT-Swiss black alloy nipples 32x<br />
Sapim CX-ray Straight Pull and J-Bend<br />
Clark Kent Pineapple Silver 32 hole Hub<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qX25K9nXZ28/T2auwjVLSBI/AAAAAAAABH4/MQfNFDGmHTQ/s1600/3672238898_305d5ae0a2_o+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qX25K9nXZ28/T2auwjVLSBI/AAAAAAAABH4/MQfNFDGmHTQ/s320/3672238898_305d5ae0a2_o+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ejv-xNMWfOw/T2auxV6KgcI/AAAAAAAABIA/iZCvRpQN8LM/s1600/3672239958_12a6c08998_o+%28Large%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ejv-xNMWfOw/T2auxV6KgcI/AAAAAAAABIA/iZCvRpQN8LM/s320/3672239958_12a6c08998_o+%28Large%29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To date I have perhaps logged about 10,000 km on this wheel. Tension seems to be even still, the rim still rolls straight and true.<br />
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Hooray for 90s Mountain Biking at it's best. 20th century technology rehashed in the late 21st as a road bike hub. Complete opposite from what Clark Kent had originally anticipated it to do. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-18101504534992680012012-03-17T23:32:00.000-04:002012-03-17T23:32:19.747-04:00UCI MTB World Cup 2012 XCO 1 - Men's Cross Country Pietermaritzburg, South Africa UCI MTB World Cup 2012 XCO 1 - Men's Cross Country Pietermaritzburg, South Africa<br />
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<a href="http://extreme.com/mountainbike/1020289/uci-mtb-world-cup-2012-xco-1-mens-cross-country-pietermaritzburg-south-africa">http://extreme.com/mountainbike/1020289/uci-mtb-world-cup-2012-xco-1-mens-cross-country-pietermaritzburg-south-africa</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5622272715310663524.post-64952889271094407442012-03-17T16:56:00.002-04:002012-03-17T23:35:25.882-04:00UCI MTB World Cup 2012 XCO 1 - Women's Cross Country Pietermaritzburg, South AfricaUCI MTB World Cup 2012 XCO 1 - Women's Cross Country Pietermaritzburg, South Africa <br />
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http://extreme.com/mountainbike/1020288/uci-mtb-world-cup-2012-xco-1-womens-cross-country-pietermaritzburg-south-africa<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02683598680390426098noreply@blogger.com0